AMA Insider Fall 2016 | Page 44

Smooching Mandela’s likeness Johannesburg’s Orlando Towers “One day in Johannesburg, and already the tribe was being rebuilt, the house and soul being restored.” —Alan Paton, author of cry, the beloved country Founded as a gold town in the 19th century, Johannesburg still relies on mining, as well as financial services and government, to support its population of nearly eight million. The sprawling metropolis has endured significant growing pains over the past two decades, but an urban renaissance has reinvented the downtown core and fostered investment in arts and culture. The Apartheid Museum is just one example of renewal. Upon arrival you’re given a ticket randomly marked 44 FALL 2016 AMA InsIder blankes (Afrikaans for whites) or nie-blankes (non-whites) and shown to the corresponding, separate entrance for that group—a stark demonstration of the system of racial segregation that was a reality in South Africa from 1948 to 1994. Inside, interactive exhibits broadcast the country’s colonial past, the effects of decades of apartheid and steps that led to its eventual demise. Some of the simplest displays are the most powerful: A video of a defiant young Nelson Mandela explaining his anti-apartheid views; a room with 131 nooses representing political prisoners executed by the government. Similarly harrowing is Constitution Hill, once a prison whose inmates included Mandela himself as well as Mahatma Gandhi. The building is now the country’s Constitutional Court, remodeled in 2004 with many windows to ensure a transparent view of justice. Visitors can see former prison cells and peruse exhibits detailing the country’s legal path from apartheid to post-apartheid. In the time since apartheid’s end, sports have played a significant role in unifying South Africa’s diverse peoples. In Johannesburg, you’ll be hardpressed to miss iconic monuments like FNB Stadium—expanded for the 2010 World Cup, “Soccer City” is home to Bafana Bafana, the national team—or Ellis Park Stadium, which hosts the Springboks, South Africa’s rugby union squad and symbol of national pride. It was on this hallowed ground that South Africa hosted (and won!) its first international sporting event of the post-apartheid era: 1995’s Rugby World Cup. For a more forward-looking dose of tower: FrederIc soLtAn/getty ImAges; mAndeLA stAtue: chrIstopher FurLong/getty ImAges; shoppIng: Joburg tourIsm Shopping for local wares in Soweto