To Match the Hatch, or Not…
With the exception of a major hatch occurring, I rarely pay too much attention to exact fly patterns. Of course, if a substantial migration or emergence is taking place I’ll do my best to imitate it. However, results are more consitent by using suggestive patterns that have life and movement than to imitate every possible food source in the lake - then hope the trout want to eat the one you’re offering.
Seal Buggers, Stillwater Nymphs, Baggy Shrimp, Half Backs, mohair leeches, dragonfly nymphs, baby damsels, etc. are very effective during all seasons, whether or not a major feeding event is underway. By varying fly colours and sizes, and including a few with beadheads, there are very few days that these sorts of flies won't work to get you into fish.
A key consideration for shallow water flies is to use minimal added weight on your patterns. You want to keep your flies from sinking right into the weeds, so a few wraps of lead is more than sufficient to weight your patterns.
Gear
I match my gear based on conditions and fishing tactics rather than on the size of the fish. For that reason I generally use 6 and 7wt rods and lines. They can cast a long ways, into the wind, and allow me to maneuver good fish away from hazards which they could use to escape. Heavier gear also makes casting multiple wind-resistant flies easier. Any 9-10ft rod from 5-8wt rod will work well enough for Alberta stillwaters.
Tippets should be stout. Fluorocarbons allow us to use thicker, stronger lines while retaining a degree of stealth. Straight 10-16ft sections of 8-10lb fluoro is best with sinking lines, while 6-10lb will suffice for indicator fishing. Again, heavier line is often necessary to keep good fish away from obstructions and give you a proper chance to land them.